Had an opportunity to go to Mexico with my friend Roger Eales, who brought along his friend Shane Valiere and photog Aaron Schall for a quick strike mission to Mex. With the bulk of the swell hitting Wednesday, we were looking to go the next day, Thursday. Roger had a school project and I had a work commitment Wednesday...plus it was 30-40' at Todos on Wednesday and I didn't really want that level of commitment for my first trip to Todos.
Our first stop was Baja Malibu, and this was what we saw at the top of the stairs.
I know...how do you pass that up? The pics Aaron took look insane, but the reality was a 6.8' high tide and a lot of pinching tight tubes. Looked like it was gonna be epic in a few hours...but...
Todos was calling and we left BM's hoping the surf was at least double the 6-8' we saw out front. With swell in the San Clemente channel at 7' @ 16 sec, we weren't sure what we'd find.
We made it to Isla Todos Santos by 11 am, and the conditions couldn't have been better. 85 degrees, no wind, clear blue watter...and only 4 dudes out the back! Plus a couple of skis whipping guys into the inside bowl. Looked kinda smallish, but after paddling out and right over a 15' set I thought twice. Ended up getting a few dozen form about 12' up to 18'...there were a few 20' sets throughout the day.
That's me on a decent one...got confident enough to take off behind the peak on a few. Looks like I'm about to get axed here, but no worries, made the corner!
Stopped at BM's on the way home and got a few nice shacks going both ways to top off the day...Still buzzing four days later...
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